NC500 - Top Tips and final thoughts
In July 2019 myself and my brother travelled around the North of Scotland in a VW Campervan, mainly on a route known as the NC500. In recent days I have been writing up an account of our travels, a day-by-day collection of images and stories, as I remember them. For anyone looking for a video record, please do check my Youtube channel for the NC500 videos.
My brother may dispute the accuracy of some of my recollections and yes, possibly I have painted him in too favourable a light at times. But I’m proud of the big lump and had a thoroughly enjoyable week with him - the first time we have ever gone on such an adventure. There has been some gentle suggestion of a follow up, a sequel, and once we are through this current situation that will be given further thought.
Anyway, the purpose of this blog is to give my own thoughts on top tips and advice for the route, should this be something you would like to try at some stage. Purely based on my own experiences from planning and experiencing the journey. So, let’s get on with it., here are my top 6 tips (I shall follow those with my top 5 locations with photos included and finally a couple of “special moment” entries)
Top Tips
Plan in advance, look at available information, decide on your accommodation, decide what you want to see on the route, think about driving distances. The north coast from John O’Groats to Durness was only 90 miles but the GPS estimated driving time was 2 hrs 45 mins. Accommodation can be limited in certain areas and at peak times gets booked up. The Applecross Inn is a good case in point - has a small number of rooms and is immensely popular. To give an idea we had all our accommodation - campsites and hotels - booked 6 months in advance. The Rough Guide to the North Coast 500 (Compact Travel Guide) (Rough Guides) is a book to consider. I have listed other possible resources on this page.
The suggested route is clockwise, i.e. heading West from Inverness. I would suggest an anti-clockwise route, heading North from Inverness. By choosing this route you move from the gentler east coast scenery towards the more dramatic west coast, the scenes and views more associated with the Scottish Highlands. I hesitate to use the phrase “save the best to last”, but it perhaps explains the thought process. No offence to East Coasters!
Use the route as a guide, not an absolute. There may well be places you want to visit that are not on the official route - For us, that would be Dunnotar Castle, featured in this video. We didn’t do it, but I have seen reviews from others who have added Orkney as a brief diversion. Ferries leave from Thurso and John O’Groats, so logistically is very doable.
Bear in mind your available time. A friend of mine claimed to have “done the NC500” in two days on a motorbike. That’s not doing the NC500, that’s having fun on a bike on Highland Roads. I can kinda get the attraction of that, but it is not, to me, “doing the NC500”. Allow as much time as possible, I’d suggest 5-7 days minimum. Fully appreciate that most people have time restrictions and other commitments to build into the equation.
Research the food options. Scotland has some great produce, try to fit these into your planning if you are in any way a foodie. The Seafood Shack and Whaligoe Cafe were two places I specifically mentioned, but there are restaurants, distilleries and smokehouses all around the route - try to fit some in.
Be prepared for the changeable weather and for midgies. For the weather, it can be sunny and warm one minute, blowing a gale with horizontal rain a few minutes later. Believe me on this. At one point we were sitting in the van with the rain lashing one window and sunlight streaming in the other. It’s weird, expect it. As for the midgies do not underestimate the little buggers. Take protection - deet sprays, jungle sprays, whatever you can get your hands on. “Avon Skin So Soft” is reportedly effective. Fill yer boots.
Remember you are a tourist, a visitor. Respect the locals, support local business and treat those you come across with all due respect. This includes being savvy on the roads - don’t hold others up, don’t travel in convoys, don’t park where you should not. And tidy up after yourself.
Top 5 Locations
This is incredibly tricky, picking out just 5. But in for a penny, in for a pound…in no specific order…
Applecross, I loved it. The coastal route with the views to Skye(cheers, Big Yin!), the views from the Inn, the available light for photography, the food and accommodation and the fact it was the starting point for our Bealach Na Ba drive. Bit of a trek to get there, but worth every second.
The Whaligoe Steps. I had been fascinated by the steps since watching Billy Connolly feature them on his “World Tour of Scotland” many years ago. The scenery, the walk up and down and the cafe at the top was the icing in the cake - great food. Plus, the Big Yin paid for the meal so it was a winner all round.
Duncansby Head. That view on a beautiful sunny day. I was not expecting anything so stunningly dramatic. More time to walk along these cliff tops would have been wonderful. Something to aim for next time. You can see more from the area on this video
Durness/Sango Bay. Please read this blog for more info on this area, it also includes possibly my favourite image from the trip. I love this view looking north, but it misses out two beautiful beaches which lie at the base of the cliff below me. The campsite on top of the cliff was in a perfect location. And had a decent pub onsite as an added bonus.
Scourie. Lovely hill walks to viewpoints giving stunning views as well as this walk around the coastline. My Durness to Scourie blog has more images from here. We also stayed in the Scourie Hotel as an added treat - good food, nice drinks and lovely (separate) rooms with private facilities - a good break from van life for a night.
So, those were my top 5 tips and locations, now on to some “special moments”…
Might not seem much, but I loved this moment. Simple sausages on a roll with a lovely Highland view - the dry stane dykes, the stone building and the view to the mountains in the distance. This was Balnakeil Church and we got talking to another couple of vanners. They were a little older than us, a married couple and were travelling in an older style camper. It turned out that the lady had been diagnosed with a terminal illness, so the couple had bought a van and were touring the country, taking their time, enjoying the journey, the destinations and making special memories together. Where possibly, they were using video technology to share their journey with their grown up kids. This was a very touching moment and added to why I included this image here in the “special moments” section. People can make or break a trip - my trip was enriched here.
The Big Yin. What to say? The trip just would not have been the same without him and his gilet.
Might seem and odd one, but sitting in the van while a storm blew outside was a memorable moment and, for me, made the van experience even better. Sitting in the warmth with a cup of coffee and watching the elements while catching up on messages and emails made me very happy indeed. The Big Yin was sat opposite me, reading a book. I’d never seen that before.
Well, that sums up this blog and concludes my NC500 series. I have seen from comments on the blog and on the facebook page that many of the entries and images have brought back happy memories for some and given travel plans to others. There are also comments thanking me for somehow bringing a diversion from the enforced isolation that many of us are currently experiencing. I am incredibly grateful for all of that feedback and it encourages me to continue blogging about past travel experiences both in the UK and abroad. So I will.
Hopefully the day will soon come when we can all start to make travel plans again.
Until then, stay home, stay safe and be kind!
Fatman xxx