NC500, Day 6 - Ullapool to Applecross
Before I wade into proceedings, just a little background. It’s Sunday afternoon where I am and I’ve just knocked off the best part of a bottle of wine, so this could be fun. There’s a saying, “In Vino Veritas”, which effectively means that if you drink a lot, you’ll tell the truth. Let’s put that to the test, shall we…?
On to business. Time and tide wait for no man. Nor, sadly, does the NC500. We are on day 6 already and today would see us drive from Ullapool to Applecross, a journey that would take us through some of the most dramatic scenery in Scotland.
Similar to the previous two days, the weather would prove to be variable and photographically challenging at times. But we would end the day at the famous Applecross Inn where we would, for the second time on the trip, abandon the van and sleep in(separate) rooms with private facilities. The reason for an overnight stay in the Inn wasn’t just a night in comfort where we could have a hearty meal, a few drinks, some privacy - my god, he’s a noisy sleeper - and hopefully a decent sleep, but also it gave us an early crack at the notorious Bealach Na Ba. More on that tomorrow.
So we awoke at Ullapool camp site to better weather and we went through the morning routine - tidying the van, showering, getting breakfast ready. Today was a special day - I made scrambled eggs. Even though I say it myself, I reckon I do a damned good scrambled egg. You can see evidence of this in the video and photos below. Keep it simple, show some love and attention and that’s a Michelin dish right there. I might even do a video on scrambled eggs at some stage, I have culinary skills that the world needs to see. And you, dear reader, are having a preview right here. You’re a lucky bunch and no mistake.
After our sumptuous breakfast we hit the road, but only for about 20 minutes and then we made our first stop at Corrieshalloch Gorge. To be honest I wasn’t expecting much, but this place was stunning. A short walk through a forest brought us to a small suspension bridge, from where we overlooked the Falls of Measach. I had never heard of these Falls until our NC500 planning and I suspect neither have most people. But if you are in the area go see them. Just go. I have some photos below and they are in the video. Just look. And go.
After crossing the bridge another short walk took us to a viewing platform and the path then continued to a higher viewpoint, looking back up the valley. This was a great wee “stretch the legs” stop, but beware of midgies in this area.
Now, yesterday I neglected to bring up an incident that occurred on the Scourie to Ullapool route, but in the interests of full disclosure it is only fair I belatedly bring this to your attention. During our drive, and with no advance warning, the Big Yin suggested a “slight detour, it will be worth it”. He directed us onto some really narrow, long, windy and treacherous road that was nearly the death of me. Single track road, blind summits, cliff edges, hairpin turns and took over an hour to reach civilisation again. I couldn’t speak to him for at least 30 minutes after that fiasco, my nerves were in shreds.
He excused himself by saying he was looking for Achmelvic Beach which is, admittedly, one of the most beautiful in Scotland and well worth a visit. However, it was cold, windy and the rain was chucking down so no way were we going to a beach anyway. I sent him to the back of the van to change out of his speedos and to let me calm down. Which I did, because I’m not one to bear a grudge.
Anyway, back to the present and the journey to Applecross. Actually, you know what - I’ve lost the thread so I’m going to move on to the video and photos, then talk about each one as we go. Bloody Achmelvic Beach. Pfffft.
Quite pleased with this video - has the eggs, the gorge, a lovely drive on the approach to Applecross and some rather choice language from the Big Yin at 6.09 and 6.25. He’ll be over mother’s knee when she sees this. (If you could subscribe to the channel that would be much appreciate and give me a massive morale boost - thanks!)
Fatman’s Legendary Eggs!
Served in a white bap. If the Greek Gods could have had this, the’d have binned their ambrosia in a heartbeat and never looked back.
First stop of the day was at Corrieshalloch Gorge - from this bridge you had a birds eye view of the Falls.
Overhead view of the falls - please do watch the video to get a better idea of their scale.
Beautiful..!
Looking back up to the falls and the suspension bridge, taken from the viewing platform.
And here is the viewing platform…
A short walk from the platform brings you to this viewpoint.
A view from our route south…
We had a wee stop at a parking spot in the Torridons. Please bookmark this image - the Big Yin isn’t wearing his blouse. Even the stag seems to be cheering the moment.
A view through the Torridons…we had just driven down this road
And we were just about to drive in this direction..
Shortly after this, we stopped for lunch at the Torridon Castle Hotel and then, just after Sheildaig, we turned off the A896 towards Ardheslaig and Fearnbeg. This road is so small and windy I’m not sure it has a designation - but it is a lovely coastal road and is featured in the video above. 6.09 and 6.25.
To give you an idea on some of these roads, my bro is a big lad. He has served in Her Majesty’s Forces, fighting for our country. He now works in a major supermarket in the frontlines of our current war. He’s no chicken and I am very proud of the daft lump. But the Roads of Scotland brought him to tears.
Or it may have been my driving, but that seems unlikely. Whatever it was, the effects of the roads on him were not pleasant and I very quickly regretted giving him eggs for breakfast.
That said, the road did afford some wonderful views and I was grateful to stop and get some fresh air. However, my feelings of gratitude were soon to turn to regret and shame..
Here, on the long coastal approach to Applecross, as he took photos of his own, the Big Yin said something like, “Lovely views all the way to Skye”. To my eternal regret, my geographic awareness left me and I questioned his mentality in what were, in retrospect, possibly fairly aggressive terms. It was only after consulting Google Maps that I acknowledged my error. I had been Bested By The Big Yin.
I can only fully and publicly offer my honest apology if he in any way perceived my doubt as anything other than a sincere “are you sure that’s Skye..?”
Those who know me are aware that I’m the first person to put their hand up and apologise if they make a mistake. And this wasn’t my proudest moment. I had to face facts - I was no longer the Big Man in the Camper Van. Again, I’m not one to linger on these things.
Here’s a better view, doesn’t have him in it.
Our base for the evening, the Applecross Inn
Some of the Applecross menu
I had the posh fish and chips, the monkfish. Washed down with cider.
The bay in front of the hotel - there was some stunning light, the evening sun and the approaching storm. These conditions were a bit of a dream, lovely for taking photos!
The low sun behind me was lighting the shore while a storm approached from over the hills. Now, just to be clear, I do edit my images and, if there was interest, I’d happily do a short video on the processes I use. It’s generally minimal, just tweaks.
I loved this view from the front of the hotel, looking over the bay towards the cottage.
Well, that concludes this penultimate day of our road trip around Scotland. The next blog will cover our drive from here to Edinburgh, starting with the Bealach Na Ba.
Until then, stay home, stay safe, be kind!